Tuner FAQ & Troubleshooting

In this article we will cover some frequently reported issues users are having with our tuners, and how to resolve these issues.
If you can't find the answer or just need our assistance with troubleshooting your issue, please contact our customer support and we'll be glad to help you. Please use the guide for parts and terminology found below as reference for letting us know what parts are causing you trouble.

Tuner parts and terminology

The .strandberg* EGS hardware has been revised a number of times. Please see the below guide to determine what revision is installed on your instrument and use this guide for reference in your troubleshooting or if you need to contact us about your issue. If you own an instrument with older hardware than what is referenced here, please get in touch with us for assistance.

Assembly and disassembly

If you need to disassemble the tuner, please follow the steps below. Do everything in reverse for reassembly.

1. Tune the string down to slack and remove it.
2. Remove the tuner from the single- or tremolo baseplate by releasing the tuner mounting screw (2mm hex).
3. Fully unscrew the Tuning bolt and remove it from the Plunger together with the Teflon washer.
4. Fully unscrew the Tuner guide screw, seated underneath the Tuner housing, and extract the Plunger and Bearing from the Tuner housing.
5. The tuner is now fully disassembled.

Troubleshooting

The saddle screw is hard to turn. What's wrong?

With the the EGS Rev 7 hardware, introduced with the NX models, the previous design with a saddle locking screw is replaced with a tuner housing design that grips the saddle screw. To be able to lower or raise the saddle screw, the intonation screw that mounts the tuner housing to the baseplate needs to be loosened. This will release the tuner's grip on the saddle screw, making it possible to adjust the height.

If you try to adjust the saddle screw without loosening the intonation screw, chances are you will cause damage to the screw, the tuner housing or the tool you're using.

The tuners are hard to turn. What can I do?

If you find the tuners hard to turn, your first course of action should be check that they are lubricated with a tiny amount of high-quality oil (sewing machine oil type) or lithium grease.

Secondly, we introduced Teflon washers in the tuners during 2018. These are white plastic washers that sit between the tuner knob and the tuner housing. If your guitar is missing them, simply visit our shop and pick some up from the Spare Parts section.

Starting in 2016, the tuner knobs have an internal 6 mm hex profile, and your guitar should have come with a 6 mm T-wrench, to simplify accurate tuning.

There is also a possibility that the threads have been damaged or worn out. Next time you change strings, unscrew the knob as far as it will go, and pull out the screw portion and inspect it. Take a photo and get in touch with us for advice.

I can't get the tuning bolt back on the tuner. What do I do?

When re-stringing your .strandberg*, the best thing to do is to screw the tuning bolt back onto the threaded plunger of the tuner slightly before pulling the new string tight and locking it at the headstock. Otherwise you might end up not having enough threads sticking out to get the bolt back on. If this has happened, don't be alarmed. Getting the bolt re-attached is not complicated. Please follow the steps below and everything will be working fine again.

1. Unlock the string in question at the headstock
2. Grip the threaded plunger of the tuner with your finger nails or a set of small pliers and pull it out slightly
3. Re-attach the tuning bolt
4. Lock the string at the headstock (possibly while pulling the string a little in case it has to much slack)
5. Tune the string to pitch

My high E string breaks at the ball end. What can I do?

If either:

• your high E (or possibly B if you use very light gauges) seems to be slipping despite being tightened at the string lock and you have to re-tune it to the point where the ball end becomes visible at the tuner side
• the strings break at the bridge

chances are that it is the string unwrapping itself at the ball end.

In our experience, this is primarily an issue that occurs with D'Addario XL strings, and changing to a brand of string that has a reinforced plain end, for example our .strandberg* branded strings (made by GHS) or D'Addario NYXL, will solve the problem. 

If you have a favorite type of string that you want to use and are experiencing this problem, you may solder the wrapped end (which many non-.strandberg* players routinely do).

I can't get the 8th string to fit into the bridge. What can I do?

The inner diameter of the tuners is 2.5 mm (or .1"). Since most guitar strings have a portion of the string at the ball end which is double wound, the diameter near the ball end is larger than the actual string. 

In our experience, around a .074" gauge string is where all is still well, but most .080" gauge strings will exceed .1" at the ball end. If you want to go bigger than .074", here are a few possible solutions:

• Buy our branded Optimized Tension strings, which have a tapered end, or our custom D'Addario NYXL sets
• Ask your favorite string supplier for a tapered string

If you are trying to fit a string that is bigger than .095", you are unfortunately out of luck, since there is no more room inside the tuner to enlarge the hole without compromising the integrity of the construction.