String Lock FAQ & Troubleshooting

In this article we will cover some frequently reported issues users are having with our string locks, and how to resolve these issues.
If you can't find the answer or just need our assistance with troubleshooting your issue, please contact our customer support and we'll be glad to help you. Please use the guide for parts and terminology found below as reference for letting us know what parts are causing you trouble.

String lock parts and terminology

The .strandberg* EGS hardware has been revised a number of times. Please see the below guide to determine what revision is installed on your instrument and use this guide for reference in your troubleshooting or if you need to contact us about your issue. If you own an instrument with older hardware than what is referenced here, please get in touch with us for assistance.

Assembly and disassembly

If you need to disassemble the string lock, please follow the steps below. Do everything in reverse for reassembly.

1. Loosen the String lock locking screw(s) and remove the string.
2. Remove the Metal washer from the housing.
3. Unscrew the String lock mounting screw.
4. The string lock is now fully disassembled.

Troubleshooting

The string keeps slipping at the locking nut. What can I do?

Locking the strings securely at the nut end requires a little bit of getting used to, to find a balance of tightening hard enough to hold it, but not too hard so that the string breaks. In the event that you are having problems, here are some things you can do:

1. Using a hex key, it is possible to exert a significant force on the string lock. Only ever tighten the string locks with a conventional "L" shaped key "standing up", ie. use the short end of it to turn it. If you use the long end, it is easy to overtighten the screw and either cut the string, or even damage the wood of the guitar. An approximate torque setting is 1 Nm/0.74Ft-Lb.
2. When you are changing strings and insert them through the string locks, pull the string tight with one hand, trying to keep it centered within the string lock hole, while tightening the locking screw.
3. The material in the screw that fastens the string lock to the guitar is hardened steel, and the "star" groove for the screwdriver effectively acts as a knife that can cut your strings. For this reason, our string locks are fitted with a small stainless steel disc that protects this surface. I.e. the string should be pressed between the locking screw and this metal disc. Unscrew the locking screw all the way and ensure that there is a small flat disc at the bottom of the string lock. In the event that this disc is damaged, it might cause the string to slip. You can try to flip it around so that the other side of it faces up.
4. The alloy used in our locking screws is still softer than the material of (most) guitar strings, so it can be deformed and burred over time. Worst case, a burr can become sharp enough that it actually cuts strings during string changes. This kind of damage to the locking screw is easy to polish out with sand paper. Look at the bottom of locking screw and periodically inspect it for damage. If the screw becomes too worn, it might not grip the string securely.

If the disc is missing, or a locking screw is damaged, look inside the other string locks. You may safely swap screws around or move a metal disc as a short term solution. If you need spares, contact support and ask for replacements.

I keep snapping strings at the string lock. What can I do?

The string lock itself is made from aluminium, which is a fairly soft metal, and could be deformed and broken quickly, so all parts that come in contact with the actual string are made from stainless steel.

If your strings break at the string lock, here are some possible reasons and what you can do:

1. Using a hex key, it is possible to exert a significant force on the string lock. Only ever tighten the string locks with a conventional "L" shaped key "standing up", ie. use the short end of it to turn it. If you use the long end, it is easy to overtighten the screw and either cut the string, or even damage the wood of the guitar. An approximate torque setting is 1 Nm/0.74Ft-Lb.
2. The material in the screw that fastens the string lock to the guitar is hardened steel, and the "star" groove for the screwdriver effectively acts as a knife that can cut your strings. For this reason, our string locks are fitted with a small stainless steel disc that protects this surface. I.e. the string should be pressed between the locking screw and this metal disc. Unscrew the locking screw all the way and ensure that there is a small flat disc at the bottom of the string lock.
3. The alloy used in our locking screws is still softer than the material of (most) guitar strings, so it can be deformed and burred over time. Worst case, a burr can become sharp enough that it actually cuts strings during string changes. This kind of damage to the locking screw is easy to polish out with sand paper. Look at the bottom of locking screw and periodically inspect it for damage.

This problem will only (us knowingly) occur on the high E and possibly B, so you may safely swap screws around or move a metal disc as a short term solution. If you need spares, contact support and ask for replacements.

I can't get the 8th string through the string lock. What can I do?

There are two versions of our Rev 5 string locks designed to ensure the correct breaking angle for every string over the zero-fret. Version 1 was used for all strings on Korean- and US-built production guitars where the lock attachment and fret size was different compared to our current lineup. It has the string attachment hole placed higher up and a detachable string lock pin. Version 2 was introduced during 2018, has the string attachment hole placed further down, and a permanent lock mounting pin.
The version 2 string lock is found in position 1-6 on all current models, while version 1 is used in the positions 7 and 8. This configuration applies to the factory specifications of current production guitars and other combinations of locks may be the right choice if using heavier gauge strings. 

The inner diameter of the version 1 of the string locks, used for the 7th and 8th string, is 2.5 mm (.1"), so they can theoretically accommodate up to a .095" gauge string.

To prevent cutting thinner strings, the string locks include small metal disc. Normally, this disc is not fitted in the 8th string lock, but in the event that it is, it can make it difficult to insert even a .080" or .084" string. You may safely remove the disc from this string lock as it doesn't fill a function.

If the problem persists, take a photo or video and get in touch with our support. 

What do I do if a string lock is coming off the headstock?

As with most moving parts, the lock mounting screw can sometimes come loose as a result of the constant pull. If this happens, please remove the locking screw, the string, and the protective washer inside the lock after which the mounting screw is tightened again. If new material is needed to ensure proper grip for the screw, this can be added in the form of small pieces of wood together with glue placed inside the mounting hole. This is true for other wood-mounted parts like strap buttons as well.

Current .strandberg* model guitars mounted with the Rev 5 string locks come equipped with a protective metal shim placed between the string locks and the headstock for protection against damage if overtightening the locks. The shim can be added to earlier Indonesian instruments without modification, but the hole pattern does not correspond to our older US- or Korean-made guitars. Anything is possible with modifications, but this is not something that we offer to do. The shim is not necessary when using the locks in the intended way, but was added for reasons of safety.